When Rim to Rim is Closed: R2R2R and Rim-to-Rim Alternatives for Ultra Runners, Backpackers, and everyone else (and Why They Matter)

It started on a sweltering July day in 2025 with a flash of dry lightning. Within hours, wildfire started spreading across the Kaibab Plateau. Within days, the historic Grand Canyon Lodge was gone. And by mid-July, the National Park Service made it official: the North Rim was closed for the season.

No lodge. No permits. No corridor trails. No Rim to Rim. No R2R2R.

It doesn’t matter if you are an ultra runner who had your sights set on a one-day Grand Canyon crossing, or a backpacker who’s been planning for months to cross the Canyon over the course of a few unforgettable days: having the Rim-to-Rim be inaccessible for the foreseeable future stings (heck, it’s already hard enough enduring the seasonal closure of the un-burned North Rim during the winter months, amiright?). And, chances are that you are currently asking the same question thousands of others are:

Rim to Rim is Closed – Now what?

I am Sunny Stroeer – an ultra runner, 23x FKT-holder, and co-owner of Dreamland Safari Tours, which is a small family-owned guiding business that’s based just a couple hours from the North Rim in Kanab, Utah. I have explored many big North Rim objectives, I have crossed the canyon countless times on foot, and I have logged many east-to-west miles in it, too.  And I’ve felt the acute, deep heartbreak of the 2025 Dragon Bravo fire.  I know how unsettling it is when winter, monsoon, or rockfall closes off access to a canyon dream route for a while… but having the North Rim developed area be taken by fire is just absolutely beyond. 

And yet, I’ve also learned something important over the years: when North Rim access isn’t in the cards and Rim to Rim plans fall apart, they don’t have to stay that way. The Grand Canyon region is so much bigger than that ONE bucket list trail. It’s more varied, more remote, in many ways more meaningful, and even more beautiful than Rim-to-Rim – especially if you’re willing to go beyond the corridor.

Since I love backpacking, but I also love doing things fast and far (yes, I know – a walking contradiction), you’ll find two chapters below: one for ultra runners, and one for Rim to Rim backpackers. Both are packed with adventure-worthy alternatives and ideas for how to pivot your plans and still experience the magic of this landscape.

Chapter 1: Rim to Rim to Rim Alternatives For Ultra Runners – Big Miles Beyond the Corridor

Rim to Rim to Rim – R2R2R – is a bucket list run. But when the North Rim is inaccessible, your options don’t disappear. They just shift. I’ve spent the past several years setting FKTs across this region, and the more time I spend here, the more convinced I am: the very best ultra routes in the Grand Canyon region aren’t necessarily the most well-known.

Here are a few long and fast options worth considering: routes that will test your endurance, take your breath away, and deliver the kind of solitude and self-reliance that defines the best ultra days.

Virgin River Rim Trail (31 or 62 miles)

High-altitude singletrack that rolls along the edge of the Markagunt Plateau in Dixie National Forest. You’ll pass through aspens and spruce, wildflowers in summer, and golden light come fall. I set the unsupported FKT here in 2020—just over 8 hours for the one-way version.
View the FKT route
Bonus: Amazing, unusual views of Zion and a few Bryce Canyon-like sections! Plus, you’re at 10,000 feet so this is a great late spring/early fall route when it’s still hot in the lower elevations.

Paria Canyon: Buckskin Gulch to Lee’s Ferry (~45 miles)

This is one of the most extraordinary point-to-point runs in the desert Southwest: start in the world’s longest slot canyon, spend hours in flowing water, and end at the confluence of sandstone cliffs and the Colorado River. I ran this route solo and unsupported in 2022 in just over 9 hours, and it’s still one of my all-time favorite desert efforts.
See the route & stats
Bonus: almost a half-marathon length of slot canyon terrain! Just make sure you REALLY check for flash flood risk. 

Grand Canyon Deer Creek – Thunder River Loop (~27 miles)

This canyon lollipop combines big views, steep descents, and lush waterfalls. You’ll earn every mile, especially on the way back out. Rugged and rarely traveled.
Route info
What makes it hard: it’s so beautiful at the apex of the lollipop, you’re not going to WANT to go fast (or leave, for that matter, which is why we offer multi-day backpacking trips on this loop as well!) 

Grand Canyon Nankoweap in a Day (only for the ultra-experienced)

Legendary for its difficulty and remoteness, the Nankoweap Trail plunges 6,000 feet in just a few miles. There’s no margin for error: water is scarce, heat is real, and there are a few sections where a wrong step could mean deadly consequences.  And a wrong move could be deadly. This is not a casual “Plan B”; it’s a full-blown test piece. I don’t recommend it for most runners. But it exists, and for a handful of desert-seasoned, canyon-experienced ultra runners, it’s out there.
In case you’re curious: I have done Nankoweap-In-A-Day before but did not submit it to the FKT website because I was not reallly trying to go fast.  My time, if I remember correctly, was somewhere around 16 hours. 

Grand Canyon R2R2R.alt – The Wild Grand Finale

If you were planning to run R2R2R and are craving something equally iconic, but far more remote, the Bass Trail variation is the ultimate alternative. This 42-mile effort resembles the corridor Rim-to-Rim in elevation profile, but trades corridor infrastructure for mandatory, no-backup-given ice cold river swims in between two rapids, route-finding, and true wilderness solitude.
In 2020, I set the women’s FKT on this route alongside Lexi Miller and Christin Douglas. In 2023, I returned solo and dropped nearly two hours off that time.
Full route description and FKT info here
My practical advice on kit / strategy here
The Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim alt is tough, and it’s unforgettable. You’ll need excellent planning, cold-water swim tolerance, and a very deep well of confidence. This one is not to be taken lightly. 

Chapter 2: Rim to Rim Alternatives For Backpackers – Deep Wilderness Adventures in the Grand Canyon and Beyond

For Rim-to-Rim backpackers, the dream is a classic multi-day journey across one of the world’s greatest natural wonders. The North Rim closure may take that specific route off the table… but the good news is, the region still offers multi-day hikes that are just as beautiful, less crowded, and often even more immersive. 

As long as it’s “just” the North Rim that’s closed, there’s of course always the option of rerouting to another Grand Canyon South Rim below-the-rim itinerary like Grandview/Horseshoe Mesa or Hermit/Monument Creek. That said, and knowing that you’re likely holding out for the chance to eventually complete the Rim-to-Rim once the North Rim is accessible again in a future season…  my recommendation would be to think about more extraordinary regional pivots so that you get the best of both worlds and a more diverse set of adventures than you would if you were to pivot to a Grand Canyon South Rim backpack now, and then return for the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim in a future year.   

Within that context, this is my list.  None of these locations are “settle for it” trips; each of them are a bucket list adventures in their own right.

Coyote Gulch – Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

If you’re looking for something magical and moderate, Coyote Gulch delivers. Sandstone arches, waterfalls, and flowing water create an oasis-like experience that’s perfect for a 3–4 day backpack. This trip is non-technical but endlessly scenic—and yes, Dreamland Safari Tours guides this one if you’re looking for support or permits.

Paria Canyon – Backpacking Edition

Where ultra runners may blaze through the Paria in a single day and miss half the scenery (trust me, I’ve been there… my first time down to Lee’s Ferry entailed pitch black night for the final 15 miles), backpackers can take their time. A 4–5 day trip from Wire Pass or White House to Lee’s Ferry gives you the chance to slow down and really absorb the canyon magic. Permits are required, but Dreamland can help navigate the process—and even assist with vehicle shuttles and water drop-offs. This is a remote, world-class backpacking experience.

Deer Creek – Thunder River Loop (for fit and experienced hikers)

OK, here’s a Grand Canyon Rim to Rim alternative IN the Grand Canyon after all, despite everything I said above!  Though, this one is not on the South Rim, and it’s VERY different scenery from what you’d find in a Rim-to-Rim. Deer Creek Hunder River is an amazing North Rim lollipop hike that’s accessed via dirt roads on the west side of the Grand Canyon, away from the developed North Rim area.  If you’re fit, sure footed, and up for a challenge, this loop rivals Rim-to-Rim in every way. Big elevation, stunning waterfalls, and an intense backcountry feel. Unlike the corridor, you’ll need to be confident in rough trails and mild scrambles, and comfortable with exposure. But if you’re ready for that, this trip is unforgettable. Note that trailhead access for this one is not subject to main North Rim closures, but can be tricky if there is big snow or other inclement weather. Talk to a regional outfitter like Kanab-based Dreamland Safari Tours to suss out the details if you are thinking about this one.

Why Your Trip Still Matters

Whether you were planning to run across the canyon in a day or backpack it over the course of several, your presence in this region means something, especially in years when the North Rim is closed.

When runners and hikers cancel, small communities like Kanab, Jacob Lake, Fredonia and Page lose more than business. They lose momentum. These towns exist because people come to explore. Choosing to still show up, to shift your plans rather than cancel them, sends a powerful message: that this landscape, and the people who live and work here (us!), are still worth your time.

At Dreamland Safari Tours, we’re here to help you pivot and make it happen. We offer guided trips, logistics support, and backcountry insight for all of these adventures. Whether you need shuttle help, route beta, gear drop logistics, or just a friendly voice to talk through your Plan B: please reach out. We’d love to share an adventure with you. 

Grand Canyon North Rim Alternatives That Are Open Now

Deer Creek is to the Grand Canyon what the Enchantments are to the Pacific Northwest.  It is magical, remote, hard, and incredibly picturesque.  Few people are lucky enough to ever lay eyes on the Deer Creek waterfalls and slot canyon, because there are only two ways to get there: either via a (very expensive) rafting trip, or by backpacking one of the Grand Canyon’s hardest developed trails. If you are strong and love the Grand Canyon, this one is for you.